GUARANTEE We guarantee that the seed germinates uniformly provided that the following post-installation practices are strictly followed. We will not be held liable for damages incurred to seed or seedlings caused by fertilizer, pesticides, other unauthorized chemical applications, vandalism, or acts of God, such as washouts due to heavy rains or straw blowing away due to high winds. Any need for repairs due to this shall be an addition to the contract.

EXPECTATIONS A seeded lawn takes at least one full year to fill in uniformly throughout your yard, and many times two years are needed to develop a thick, luxurious lawn. In the first season, there may be a weed problem, even though quality topsoil was used. Weeds can easily be controlled using a proper fertilization and weed control program. Consider hiring a custom service for this. WBL can provide this service; ask your salesperson for further details.

POST-INSTALLATION CARE

WATERING Once the grass seed is sown, start watering lightly 2 to 3 times a day to keep the seedbed moist to promote germination. Watch closely so you will be aware of when it begins to germinate. (Approx. 7 to 10 days for ryegrasses.) The most critical time is when the grass blades are so fine they are almost invisible. If possible, you must water very lightly to prevent washing out 2 to 3 times per day. Begin as soon as your seed has begun to germinate, and continue watering, as instructed above, for two weeks for ryegrass and turf-type tall fescue lawns; three weeks for fine and hard fescue mixes; and four weeks for good bluegrass establishments. Blue grasses germinate last, taking about three weeks. These continuous, light waterings will allow your fescues and bluegrasses to begin their germination without washing the seed and soil away. After this germination period, water lightly, approximately every other day, until you have moved four times.

Even after your new lawn is well on its way, watering should be continued, as it is essential for a healthy lawn with vigorous, deep root growth. Adequate watering should be part of your regular lawn maintenance program throughout the growing season. Adequate water can be defined as enough water to maintain some moisture in the soil at a depth of 2 to 4 inches. You may want to consider an automatic sprinkler system. One inch of water per week (including rainfall and additional water) should be satisfactory under most conditions. (See diagram) During drought periods (two weeks or longer with little or no rainfall), additional watering should occur. More water than usual is also essential for sandy soils, gravelly soils, or full sun areas on the south or west-facing slopes. The time of day when you water is also important. Most authorities state that early morning or evening watering is best to promote deep root growth and vigorous turf. However, The Ohio Landscapers Association urges homeowners to avoid very late evening waterings, as they can lead to fungus problems. Watering in the evening or late afternoon should be done early enough to allow the grass blades to dry off before nightfall. On windless, humid days, when pattern interruption and rapid evaporation is not a worry (we conservationists do worry), it is best to thoroughly water in the hottest part of the day. Follow this diagram to measure the proper amount of water needed to water your lawn. Place large tin cans on the lawn when you water. When the cans contain 1” of water, you have saturated the soil adequately.

MOWING Newly seeded lawns (or areas that have been re-seeded) should be allowed to grow to 3 ½” before the first mowing. It should be cut to 3 inches at that time, and the clippings should be picked up if they are too heavy. Subsequent mowing on new lawns, and regular mowing on established lawns, should be done often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the total height is removed at one time (1/3 of the grass blade.) If this practice is followed on established lawns, clippings can be left on the lawn. However, if the grass is over 4 inches high when mowing arrives, pick up excess clippings as these tend to smother and mat down the lawn. Mowing before the grass gets tall also keeps the grass texture finer. When mowing grass over 4 to 5 inches tall, the stalks will turn brown and feel stiff to walk on. Mowing too short is a common cause of poor, unhealthy lawns. In the summer, mow at the top setting, or about 3 to 3 ½ inches. In the spring and fall, mow as short as 2 to 2 ½ inches on smooth lawns. Make sure that you sharpen your mower blade before beginning and at least once a month thereafter.